Response:

Try using a paperclip to short the two terminals of the coolant temp sensor together. If the fan then comes on the problem is with the sensor or the coolant is not contacting the tip of the sensor.

Response:

I’m guessing you are referring to the PCV valve that plugs into a grommet on the valve cover.  This is a 2 buck item, but if you shake it and hear a rattle, it’s working.  Just replace the melted stuff, and connect it back together.  As for the CA stuff, Google works for me.  Or the dealer should have a copy of it.
 check valve allows air or liquid to pass in one direction only.  Remove it, blow in both ends.  If you can blow thru it from both ends it’s bad, if you can’t blow thru it from either end it’s bad.  If you can blow thru it in only one direction, it’s good.  As far as the second valve, don’t know what it is. 

- Check the oil, you should check the oil on your car or truck once a week, but absolutely check it before a long drive.

- Check the tires, automotive tires will loose air over time. This can result in a major problem on the road, like a blow-out. Tires will malfunction if not inflated properly.

- Check the coolant, overheating can be damaging to the vehicles engine resulting in roadside assistance.

- Inspect the belts & hoses, a belt braking can cause a number of things; including battery charging and power steering malfunction.
In summary, I have briefly explained some basic checks on your car that should be performed, before a long trip. Make sure to consult a qualified auto service mechanic for further assistance. The auto mechanic should be able to assist you with other procedures that are necessary to make your automobile road worthy. Keep your ride off of the hook and have a save trip.

Response:

Get someone to check the codes. Autozone or someplace like that will do it for free. I am just guessing but if you have a lot of miles on this car it could be your cat/converter is starting to be plugged or a sensor going bad. If it’s still under warrenty, the dealership will be the best place to start. Out of warrenty, check or have the engine codes checkrd and then let us know what has been discovered.
 Alot of times it could something as simple as a loose gas cap. Theres a sensor that monitors the vacuum pressure and if that cap is loose then it cant keep a vacuum.  I would try that…..This is True. Even a Fuel Cap being loose or having a inoperable pressure valve in it can cause this. However, if the vechicle is covered under a warrenty a maintence record is kept and these facts become availible to persons of interest like Car Fax when it is resold and the Consumer Protection Agency for ReCalls and updates.

Response:

Sounds like it’s flooded. How many miles? When was it last tuned up and fuel filter change?

Response:

Sounds like a loose connecrtion.  Get out your meter.  Wiper motors usually last forever.  My dad had to have one replaced on a 70′s AMC wagon, and we used to burn them out on our police cars when arriving at a bad accident when it was raining.  You bail out leaving all the equipment running, and on a serious injury or fatal, we might be there for a couple hours.  In the meantime, it’s stops raining, and the wipers have no lubrication, which loads the motor up and it burns out.  In about 55 years of driving 40 vehicles, I’ve never burnt one out.

GM’s Wonderful Pain…. Put it All-in-One, the Turn Signal Switch Assembly!!!! Ao $20 part and it pops out with minimal pressure. Careful with those Hair tin wires ’cause thats what started the mess.

I had a 92 Transport and it did the same thing…it was the wiper motor. Got one at Andy’s on W. Michigan with the whole mechanism and it worked great til the motor gave out for the 2nd time. I miss that van…was very comfy.

Response:

More than likely the line has frozen due to the water content that most people use to cut their cleaner in the summertime. However, if it is the pump it can be purchased seperately from the wiper motor at Auto Zone, Advanced Auto Parts, Auto Pro ect

 Can you hear he motor trying to work? The lines could be froze or sometimes the nozzle itself gets plugged. Take a needle or a small pin and poke in and out of the nozzle a few times. But nothing will help if you can’t hear the washer motor trying to work.

Response:

This can be caused by a number of issues. First thing to do is check all the fuses , fuse links and relays.
Knowing what happened when the car stopped running can help us diagnose the problem.

Was the car running fine and then suddenly died or was a stereo installed or had it been sitting for a long time, has someone pressure washed the engine etc? Give us some history on when and how the car stopped running.

The computer is usually not the problem, but rather a sensor that feeds a signal to the computer. Cam sensor, crank sensor, oil pressure sensor etc. There can be a bad coil or coil pack, bad ignition switch, faulty wiring to any of these sensors or shorted wiring. There are too many possibilities to just say it doesn’t get spark.

I am employed as a fleet mechanic for a towing company. We tow for all local & state police agencies as well as the public. Customers pick up vehicles daily and many will not start when they try to drive them away.

The three most common reasons are:
1. Alarm system issue including wrong chip or vats key
2. Inertia switch (Triggers when vehicle is in a collision)
3. Out of fuel

Response:

You can purchase them by guage size at most auto parts stores including NAPA< Carquest, Auto Aone, Advanced Auto Parts, Pep Boys, Auto Pro and even some of our local Hardware Stores like ACE and places that install car radios. Be sure to get Shrink Tube to seal the connections too